Portage Valley: Camping, Running, and Playing with Kids (Williwaw and Black Bear Campgrounds, Begich Boggs Visitor Center, Portage Glacier)

Portage Valley is one of those places that is truly breath-taking each and every time you visit. Surrounded by mountains with glaciers of varying types and sizes and hues peeking out nearly everywhere you look, the two campgrounds, visitors center, and miles of trails dotted with info-graphics offer activities that appeal to nearly every type of visitor. 

This week I camped there alone with the kids, who at three and one are in that tricky age range that can actually be very hard to get out and do stuff with. Riggs wants to do everything but gets so excited that he often has a hard time following rules and instructions. Raina wants to explore independently but since she still can't walk it's not always possible for her to be out of the carrier or stroller. Camping with them is often really fun, but always a tiring excursion for me since I'm always having to keep a hawk eye on them. There were so many places to explore in Portage Valley that we all had fun for over 24 hours without a single meltdown and all you moms out there know that's basically a miracle!

We pitched our tent at one of the 60 sites in the Williwaw Campground. There are two campgrounds in Portage Valley, the Williwaw and the Black Bear Campground, which is geared mostly toward tent and small RV camping and only has 13 sites. The Williwaw has paved roads and campsites whereas Black Bear Campground is all dirt roads and sites. But both have very spacious and private campsites, with large, flat tent-pads and fancy fire rings with multiple grate options for cooking. Both also have huge picnics tables that are too big for the table-cloth clamps most people have. 

One thing that often makes me sad at campgrounds; Squirrels that are clearly used to being
fed by people camping there. This squirrel lived in a tree next to our campsite and came
right up to me hoping for food. 

I go very minimal when camping for one night, especially when it's just me and the kids.
Small tent, air mattress (this is one must for us and we never camp without it), sleeping bags,
a pillow for Riggs and I, and blanket for Raina. As far as food goes, I had one small bag, plus
a small cooler with apples, strawberries, some roast turkey breast, and yogurt. We had the turkey and
sweet potato chips for dinner, larabars, yogurt, raisins, squeezes for snacks, and instant oatmeal with
cut up apples and nuts for breakfast. The caramel corn was dessert the first night. We didn't
even eat everything we brought. If Steve were along we would have needed twice that much haha.

Very large campsites with plenty of room for large RVs.
I like the fancy fire ring, it felt more safe and would have been
great for cooking meals with.

Breakfast at our campsite. I use a simple burner hooked to a propane can to heat water for the oatmeal.
We had a fire because it was pretty chilly and Riggs really wanted one.

The Trail of Blue Ice: very well maintained and well marked.

The two campgrounds are connected by a short trail and both have access to the Trail of Blue Ice, which is 4.5 miles one way connecting all of the US Forest Service facilities, from Moose Flats Day Use area to the Begich Boggs Visitor Center. There are a few other points of interest along the Trail of Blue Ice, including the Williwaw Fish Viewing Platform, the Williwaw Nature Trial, and the Gary Williams Nature Trail, for a total of over 10 miles of trail. That doesn't include the trail to Byron Glacier, which is just under a mile one way. From the Chugach Visitor Guide:

"A walk in the woods that is fun for the whole family...The wide trail allows for side-by-side strolling and has an accessible, smooth surface of gravel, pavement, or wood decking.  The views are spectacular as you walk along the creek and through glacial valleys."

I loved this aspect of camping in Portage Valley because it meant we could park the truck and leave it and get plenty of exercise during our time there. I was able to fit a 5 mile run in which is really nice considering that usually a family overnight trip is at the sacrifice of my running schedule. I imagine that with older kids it would be great to bring bikes for fun and for transportation to the visitors center.

Morning run on the trails. Riggs loved the boardwalks and bridges so I stopped so he could get out and explore.

The Begich Boggs Visitor Center sits on the shore of Portage Lake, and it's view has changed quite a big since I was Riggs' age. I remember feeling the cold air flowing off the ice-burg filled lake when we visited when I was a young child. We visited once on a school field-trip and the park ranger showed us ice worms right there at the bottom of the stairs leading down to the lake. 

Now there's not an iceberg to be found and portage glacier is barely visible from the visitors center at all. Luckily there is an hour long boat tour that takes visitors right up to the glacier, with Forest Service interpreters providing narration during each trip. I think it's about $40 for adults and half that for children, but I'm not sure of the exact price.

The Visitor Center is definitely worth a visit in my opinion, especially if it's rainy, like it is 80% of the time in Portage Valley. There are restrooms, a small gift shop, and an information desk available to visit and use for free. For $5 per adult (children 15 and under are free) you gain access to the rest of the center, including about three or four wings of exhibits and an award-winning film about the Chugach National Forest. 

For us it was a welcome opportunity to let the kids explore and play a bit, especially Raina, who was able to crawl around anywhere she pleased. This is a very child-friendly visitor center, with lots for them to explore with their hands and eyes. There was even a giant ice-worm for the kids to climb and crawl all over - Riggs especially loved that. 

Inside the Begich Boggs Visitor Center - lots for kids to enjoy.

Beautiful quick run back to Williwaw campground (1.5 miles) - the kids fell asleep and slept while I broke down camp.

It's pretty clear that we had a blast during our short stay in Portage Valley. Let me break down the pros and any cons I can come up with for you:

PROS:

1. CAMPSITES: large, private, great tent-pads, very safe-feeling fire rings.
2. TRAILS: beautiful, well-maintained, double-stroller friendly, informational.
3. ACTIVITES: salmon viewing, visitors center, walk-up glacier less than a mile away.
4. LOCATION: close to Anchorage (nice to have a short drive with young kids)

CONS:

1. WEATHER: usually pretty rainy and windy. We definitely lucked out with gorgeous weather during our visit. However, it's still a very fun place to visit even with wet, nasty weather, especially if you have a camper or a good rain-fly for your tent.
2. BUGS: this trip there were quite a few flies early in the morning and late in the evening. They were more annoying than anything, and kept their distance once the fire was going. Stick to campsites 35-59 to avoid the buggier sites.

TIPS:

1. Black Bear Campground: This campground is small but has very spacious sites. Not quite as private as the Williwaw sites because there are more spruce trees than leafed trees. I think the sites on the back of the loop (5-8) are nice because they are close to the river, have shortcuts to the Trail of Blue Ice, and lots of big rocks and trees for kids to play amongst. 
2. Williwaw Campground: Our favorite. Truly a gem of a campground with the nicest campground hosts this year too. We like the campsites on the last two loops, but the first two loops have a beautiful view and are closest to the other campground and to the Salmon Viewing Deck.
3. Salmon Viewing Deck: If you have kids with you, this would be a great spot to come hang out in August and the first week in September. I would bring a camp chair if you're lazy like me haha. Both my kids (yes, even Raina) loved watching the salmon and would have stayed much longer than the 20 minutes we were there if time would have allowed (we stopped there on our way home). 
4. Whittier: One thing I haven't mentioned thus far is that the tunnel to Whittier is literally five minutes away from the campgrounds. Visiting Whittier is another must-do for Alaskan's and visitors alike, and camping in Portage Valley is a great way to enjoy a full day in Whittier. There's glacier cruises (see my post about our trip last year, here), kayaking, fishing, and lots of hiking (see fellow Alaskan blogger Kelsey's post about hiking Portage Pass from Whittier, here). Plus traveling through the tunnel is an experience in its own right.
5. Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center: Another great activity to enjoy during the day while camping in Portage Valley is the AWCC right across the Seward Highway from the Portage Valley Highway turnoff. I will be doing a separate post about our visit there, but I will take the time to say this is a must-do when visiting Alaska or for those who live here. Great experience for a great price that supports a great cause. 

Williwaw Salmon Observation Deck. The kids loved this!

Beautiful glacier views in the Williwaw Campground - Portage Valley.

Top 5 Running Essentials for Women

Running is a pretty simple sport. Compared to other outdoor activities that require hundreds and sometimes thousands of dollars worth of equipment, it's also a pretty inexpensive sport. But there are a few items that I consider to be flat-out essential to an enjoyable running experience and to preventing injury as well.

When it comes to budget, every runner will have different opinions about how much money you need to/should spend on gear, but in my experience a little bit of investment goes a long way and sometimes spending a little bit more in the beginning can make it quite a bit easier to get the most out of the sport.

For some people, spending more on shoes is a must, especially for runners with tendency toward injuries. For others, investing in a quality pair of comfortable, wireless earbuds is key to enjoying themselves on their runs. The best way to find out exactly what will make running regularly an achievable goal for you is to get out there and start running. The more time you spend actually logging miles, the better idea you'll have of what gear is worth the splurge.

#1  SHOES

Obviously shoes top the list of running essentials. However it might surprise you to hear that you don't need to go out and buy the most expensive running shoes you can find. I recommend being honest with yourself about how much you plan on running to start out with, and what type of surfaces you plan on logging the majority of your miles. Then go to a local running store with knowledgeable staff and ask for their help in finding the best running shoe for your needs. Plan on spending anywhere from $60-$120 for one pair of quality running shoes. If you live in Alaska, I can personally recommend Skinny Raven Sports in Anchorage and Active Soles in Palmer.

If you are a more experienced runner with plans to log an equal amount of miles on pavement and trails, I would suggest investing in a quality pair of trail-running shoes and a separate pair of road-running shoes. Every runner is different and will have certain physical issues they might be working around in regards to choosing the best shoe to fit their needs. Some might prefer more supportive shoes while others might be looking for a more minimal shoe. I'm in the minimalist group and prefer to run in shoes with less cushion and support. My feet are very 'claustrophobic' and so thick, restrictive material on the upper part of the shoe is definitely a no-go for me.

I run in Nike Free 4.0 Flyknits and Brooks Cascadia 9s and am very happy with both pairs of shoes. If the Brooks had the flyknit fabric on the upper they would be even better, but for trail running the heavier fabric on the upper doesn't bother me as much as it tends to when I'm running on the road or paved trails.

#2  SPORTS BRA

Being comfortable while running is pretty important when it comes to enjoying yourself and being motivated to run regularly. A huge part of being comfortable when you're a women is finding a bra that fits well, does it's job and looks good while doing it.

I used to love the Nike Pro Classic sports bra, and I still do for cross-training and very short runs. But as I've increased mileage and since breastfeeding two children, I've found that chafing has become more of an issue with this bra. I need individual support for each breast, as well as seamless cups. There are so many options out there for different chest sizes, but I've found that Moving Comfort bras are an industry standard for support and comfort.

My very favorite sports bra for running is the Moving Comfort Fineform A/B. I love the way it looks first of all, and it's surprisingly supportive for how strappy it is. I actually wear a 34-C and have found that the size medium A/B works better for me than the C/D version, so I definitely recommend trying both on if you've got a smaller band size.

#3 Fitness Tracker with GPS

With smart phone technology being what it is these days, I know many people use apps on their phones for tracking their runs. I used to do the same thing, until I just couldn't stand it anymore. Waiting for the app to load, waiting for my run to actually begin, inaccurate speed and distance, issues with bad reception, the list goes on, and I was just over it. 

To me, it's well worth it to invest $100-$250 in a watch that's specifically made for runners, with it's own GPS capabilities so that you can leave your phone in the car. Personally I would steer clear of 'activity trackers' that focus more on tracking steps, and find a fitness tracker that is geared towards runners. I use the Garmin Forerunner 220 and love it. Knowing your pace is a huge part of training, so if you want to improve your times during races, having a watch like this is key.

#4 FOAM ROLLER

Casual runners are often pretty neglectful about self-care, i.e. stretching or cross training, which can lead to injury pretty quickly. Foam rolling has been a complete game-changer for me in regards to recovery after a difficult run or race. I foam roll in the morning and at night before bed in addition to before and after every run I go on. Any time I'm feeling tight or stiff, I foam roll.

I recommend getting a wider roller so that it's easier to get the hang of rolling. We have a long one we keep at home as well as two smaller ones that are more portable. Here is a great introduction to foam rolling, and REI has a pretty good selection of foam rollers (I always love an excuse to rack up that dividend).

#5 BODY GLIDE

Any time I run over four miles in shorts, I run the risk of chafing my inner-thighs. It's been over 70 nearly all summer, so I've been running in shorts pretty much every day. As a result, body glide has become my best friend. This stuff is amazing, when you put it on, you don't feel like it's going to do anything, but I've never chaffed while using it, even on runs over 13 miles in hot, sweaty conditions. It also works great on your feet and where ever seams might rub sensitive skin raw. Probably the best six dollars you'll ever spend as an outdoor runner.

In addition to these five items, I never leave my house without a few other items. A tiny thong and packable shorts live in my purse at all times - since having kids it's like a game to see how long it will take into my run before I pee, especially when trail running. Whether it's a little leak or my whole bladder (gross, I know, but trying to be honest here!) I nearly always need a clothes change if I'm going to be out in public or ride in a car. I know some women who haven't had children struggle with this, too. 

I also always run with a small can of bear spray. The mace they make for personal protection isn't quite enough, at least for me since I run outside in pretty rural neighborhoods or trails in the middle of nowhere 95% of the time. Also if you are running trails that have low visibility, please run with the can in your hand. If you come around a corner and there's a bear 3 feet away, it's probably not going to do much good in a pocket of your stroller or even in a pocket on your running belt. 

If there's something I didn't include that you think should have been on the list, please add your advice in the comments. Also if you have any questions, feel free to ask, I'm an open book. Happy Running!

August Goals

"There is no month in the whole year in which nature wears a more beautiful appearance than in the month of August. Spring has many beauties, and May is a fresh and blooming month, but the charms of this time of year are enhanced by their contrast with the winter season. August has no such advantage. It comes when we remember nothing but clear skies, green fields, and sweet-smelling flowers — when the recollection of snow, and ice, and bleak winds, has faded from our minds as completely as they have disappeared from the earth — and yet what a pleasant time it is! Orchards and cornfields ring with the hum of labour; trees bend beneath the thick clusters of rich fruit which bow their branches to the ground; and the corn, piled in graceful sheaves, or waving in every light breath that sweeps above it, as if it wooed the sickle, tinges the landscape with a golden hue. A mellow softness appears to hang over the whole earth; the influence of the season seems to extend itself to the very wagon, whose slow motion across the well-reaped field is perceptible only to the eye, but strikes with no harsh sound upon the ear."

Charles Dickens perfectly put into words my feelings about the month of August. It may be my new favorite month, and for the last week I've been busy enjoying it's beauty and charm. But before too much more time passes, I wanted to sit down and write out my goals for the month.

A big part of living intentionally for me is making realistic goals for myself on a daily, weekly, monthly and even yearly basis. Some of these goals can be achieved after a couple of hours work, and others require daily discipline for long periods of time to complete (saving money, training for a race, etc). 

My goals for this month fall into a few different categories, and I'll try to check in again in September to reflect on how successful I was at achieving my goals and to share any new goals I may have. 


PARENTING
Both my kids are great at playing independently, and although I'm grateful that they've mastered this skill early in life, I feel like sometimes I don't spend as much quality time with them as I'd like as a result. This month I'd like to focus on one-on-one time doing an activity that is relationship building as well as educational for them. Riggs hasn't gotten very into coloring yet, and I think it would be beneficial to him for me to sit and color with him for half an hour a few times a week.

When Riggs was the age Raina is now, I spent hours reading board books and poems to him every week. Because we spend so much time reading the books that Riggs likes, I feel like Raina hasn't gotten the reading experiences that I feel are important at her age, and so I'm working on spending five to fifteen minutes a day reading age-appropriate books to just her, in addition to the books the three of us read together. 


HOME
I haven't had the time sit down and write a full blog post about this yet, but Steve and I are really working on decluttering our lives so that we can be free to live more fully. What's funny is that to most people, we already live pretty simply and don't have a lot of the stuff people seem to accumulate at our stage in life. However we are striving to live intentionally and have big dreams about splitting our time between a small cabin/"home base" in Alaska and a truck/trailer traveling and exploring for months at a time. To make this dream a reality we need to evaluate everything we own and make sure the items we keep are things we feel we can't live without.

This month I'm focusing on going through our clothes (again) and books. Since the season is about to change it's a good time to evaluate our clothing to get rid of things we aren't wearing and to add any items we might need for colder weather. 


RUNNING
Training has really been on the back burner for the two weeks with how much we've been traveling and spending time with family. But it's kind of okay because after the Her Tern Half my knees took quite a bit of time to feel back to normal; they were sore and achy for over two weeks, so the rest has been nice. I'm supposed to be running the Big Wild Life Skinny Raven Half Marathon next Sunday, but I actually still haven't registered and am really on the fence about it.

Despite that, my goals for the month are to run 3-5 times and at least 25 miles each week and to get some cross training in at least two times a week. I think one of the reasons my knees have been so achey is because my butt and hip muscles are somewhat underdeveloped. 


CAMPING
As I mentioned in the beginning of this post, I think August is one of the most beautiful months of the spring/summer season and I want to be out enjoying it and exploring the amazing places across the state. We've been able to get quite a bit of camping in so far this summer despite Steve being gone working, but there are still a few places I'd like to go before the summer is over, including Hope and the Portage area.


BLOGGING
If you've been following my blog for a while, you have probably noticed that I haven't posted nearly as much since my pregnancy with Raina (almost two years ago now!). I've been wanting to post more regularly for quite a while, but it just hasn't been very realistic for me with two kids and a husband who has been gone nearly the entire summer. However, Riggs is starting preschool this month and I will finally have a little bit more time to devote to this space.

My goals for this month are to post at least two times per week on my personal blog and to contribute two posts per month to NW Healthy Mama blog. I am so excited to be able to spend more time doing something I love so much in a community of women that I feel so encouraged by.

Homer Trip Part One: Across the Bay

Little Tutka bay is off in the distance, across Kachemak Bay from Homer.

I'm finally getting around to posting pictures from my trip to Homer a month ago...oops. Time just seems to fly by when you're having fun!

I went down to Homer to visit Steve's family and to run in the Homer Spit Run: 10k to the Bay race, which I did an overview of, here. It's always so fun to go visit Homer, but usually we're trying to cram so much family stuff in that I never get to see friends and go places that were my favorite spots when I lived there. So this time I planned to stay for almost a week since I didn't have to work around Steve's schedule.

It was so nice to have that much time to settle in and relax, especially with a race in the middle of everything. I went down Thursday and went straight across the bay to visit Steve's dad in Little Tutka. Steve's brother Ben had to work across the bay so it actually ended up working out perfectly that I went over with him instead of having to pay for a water taxi ride. Not that I would have minded at all but I like to pinch my pennies where I can, haha.

Riggs was so happy to see Opa and to get to roam and explore the beach. I wish I could have spent another night over there, but was happy to get even one night. I put the kids to bed and went back over to the cabin to stay up late talking with Steve's dad and his wife, it was so nice to have adult time after it just being me and the kids for a few weeks.

I am so thankful that Steve got to grow up in such an amazing place and that his dad still lives there for us to visit. I just love seeing Riggs running around where Steve used to at that very same age. And Raina was really into crawling around exploring everything too, she did so well!

I hope next time we go back across that Steve can come with us, but we'll see. If you have never been across the bay from Homer, I highly recommend a trip. It's like a different world and there are so many beautiful places to explore and spend time immersed in nature. Steve's dad run an ecotourism business, A Seaside Adventure, that offers both cabin rental and kayak tours, and he is great with accommodating kids and all sorts of special situations. I highly recommend them, and though you may think I'm biased, just read some of their reviews on tripadvisor, everyone else loves them too!

At the harbor ready to go. Morgan and Riggs; Me, Raina, Evelyn and Mercedes.

 Raina loved exploring all the shells and grabbing the fishing poles.

Cousins are the best. Riggs and Morgan heading down from the cabin to the beach.

Riggs' favorite beach-combing find was a crab shell. Opa told him all about how crabs grow out of the skin and leave their too-small shell behind for us to look at and enjoy!

Oma telling Evie and Morgan about everything in the tidal pool.

Sunsets in Little Tutka may possibly be the most beautiful ever!

Morning in our cabin.

Ready to go exploring.

Helping Opa with the running line.

Blueberry pancakes for breakfast in the main cabin.

Little captain heading out on a water run.

Kayak selfie!

Already right at home in a kayak.

Water so clear you can see every detail from the Kayak. That green starfish was the most beautiful color I've every seen.

Kayak nursing.

Heading home, helping Uncle ben drive the boat.

He only lasted about 10 minutes before he was cuddled in, sleeping instead of driving.

Raina wanted a turn driving too.

It was such a fun trip with so many great memories made. Stay tuned for Part Three: the Homer Side, coming soon!

See some of our other trips to Homer and across the bay, here.